Fly Pattern: Dragon Fly Nymph
Tyer's Name: John Gort Email: (see roster)
Date: April 1, 2010 Phone: (see roster)
Fly Originator and History: John was introduced to this fly by a bunch of fly
fishers from Kamloops, British Columbia.
How the Fly is Fished
Suggested line and leader: Sinking line, tapered leader, fluorocarbon tippet.
Depth range: Deep, just above the aquatic grasses.
Suggested retrieve: Quick retrieve - try to keep the fly from dragging on the bottom.
Comments: John likes to put his boat close reed beds, and cast out into
the lake beyond the drop-off. Then retrieve the fly.
Fly Material
Hook make /size / length: #6, 3XL.
Thread: size / color / type: 8/0 Olive Uni Thread.
Weighted? y/n: No.
Tail material / size / color: Olive pheasant tail fibers.
Body material / color: Olive vernille (also referred to as 'micro chenille'),
and peacock brown Arizona Semi- Seal dubbing.
NOTE: John likes to blend-in a little bit of red dubbing into the mix.
Ribbing size / color: Medium copper wire.
Thorax / color: Dubbing, same as body, and peacock herl.
Legs /color: Olive mallard flank.
Wing case / color: Brown raffia.
Hackle size / color: --
Head size / color: Dubbing, same as body.
Eyes/color: Black monofilament eyes. John makes his own using black plastic beads,
'trapped' in a small piece of 50# monofilament.
Other: --
Tying Steps
Dragon Fly Nymph, Top View
1. Tie in a thread base from the eye to the bend (just above the barb) and run
the thread back to about 1/3 of the way behind the eye.
2. Tail. The tail should extend just beyond the bend of the hook. Tie in about 10
or 12 pheasant tail fibers. Tie down the fibers to the bend. Run the thread
back to the 1/3 point. Trim off the excess fibers.
3. Body. At the 1/3 point, tie in about 2-inches of olive vernille to each side
of the shank. Tie the vernille down back to the bend.
4. Run the thread to the 1/3 point, and then fold both pieces of vernille forward,
along the sides of the shank, and tie them down. Trim off the excess vernille.
5. Tie in a piece of copper wire on the bottom of the shank, and tie it down to the bend.
6. At the bend, form a dubbing loop. Add a generous quantity of dubbing into
the loop. Lay the copper wire over the loop and twist to the left, forming
a rather messy looking rope. Run the thread to the 1/3 point
7. Wrap the rope forward to the 1/3 point, and tie it off. Trim off the excess.
8. Trim the body. Being careful not to cut off the tail or the thread, trim
the body: The top and bottom should be trimmed rather close to the shank, and
the sides should be a little wider.
9. Legs. Each of the legs consists of about 12 fibers of olive mallard flank fibers.
When tied in, the legs should be about even with the bend of the hook. Tie in
the legs on each side of the shank, just in front of the body (on the bare shank).
10. Eyes. Tie in the eyes on top of the point where the legs were tied in.
11. Wing case. Tie in a piece of raffia just behind the eyes. Pull the raffia
forward, between the eyes and tie it down. Do not cut.
12. Add some sparse dubbing to the thread and wrap it in front and behind of
the eye ('Figure-8' wrap).
13. Thorax. Tie in 2 pieces of peacock herl just behind the eyes. Twist and
wrap the herl twice (behind the eyes) and tie off.
14. Pull the raffia back and tie down just behind the thorax. Leave a small tab
of raffia (about 1/16-inch) and cut off the remainder. Whip finish at this point.
Rick Shadforth 04/02/10
