Fly Pattern: Karen Royer's Mayfly (Drake)

              Tyer's Name: Karen Royer			
              Date: July 5, 2010		
    Fly Originator and History: This is a Karen Royer original.
                                       How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Floating line, tapered leader,  4X or 5X fluorocarbon 
    tippet.   
    Depth range: On the surface 
    Suggested retrieve: Very slow or none.
    Comments: None

                                       Fly Material
    Hook make /size / length: #8 dry fly, 2XL.
    Thread size / color / type:  8/0 Brown Uni Thread.
    Weighted? y/n: No.
    Tail material: 	3 boar's hairs.  (Some paint brushes use boar hair)
                    1 thin strip of chamois. 
                    Perch skin or raffia.
    Body material / color: Hairline 'Hare's Ear Dubbing', grey (or any color that 
    matches the hatch). 
    Note: Karen suggests NOT using Hairline's 'Hare's Ear Plus' dubbing.
    Legs: 6 hackle feathers with the barbs stripped-off (use your low quality feathers)
    Wing size / color: Dried perch tail fin.
    Head size / color:  Hair's Ear dubbing, same as the body.
    Dubbing wax - Karen uses a toilet wax ring as her source for dubbing wax.
    Other:  UV Knot Sense or UV Wader Repair cement. 
            Ultraviolet (UV) flash light. 
            Several inches of Kevlar thread to complete the tie-off of the fly.
            Candle for heating a bodkin or needle.				

                                       Tying Steps
    1. Staring from about 1/8" from the eye, lay down a smooth thread base to the 
    bend of the hook ( just above the barb).

    2. Tail. The 3 boar hairs should be about 2-times longer than the length of 
    the hook. Align the tips of 3 boar's hairs. Tie them in by the butts just behind 
    the eye, and wrap to the bend.

    3. Cut a very thin strip of chamois that is longer than the boar hairs. Cut 
    a fine tip at one end and tie it in just in front of the boar hairs.. Holding 
    chamois as well as the boar hairs, wrap them with thread leaving about 3/8" 
    of boar hair exposed.

    4. Cut a thin piece of raffia (or moistened perch skin) that is about 2 times 
    the length of the wrapped portion of the tail. At the tip of the tail, tie in 
    the raffia and wrap the thread back down to the bend. Wrap the raffia down the 
    length of the extended tail and secure (as you wrap the raffia, it should form 
    around the chamois/boar hair tail).

    5. Trim the excess chamois at the tip of the tail.  

    6. Color the topside of the tail (raffia) with waterproof color pens. Do not 
    color the underside. Apply UV Knot Sense to the wrapped portion of the tail. 
    Spread the UV glue with dubbing needle - avoid gluing the boar hairs. Apply 
    UV light (or expose to direct sunlight)to harden .

    7. Body. Add rabbit dubbing from the base of the tail to the mid- point of the hook. 

    8. Legs. Pick 6 equally sized feathers and completely strip the quill. (Here 
    you will add 4 of the 6 legs.) You want the thick ends of the quill for thighs 
    and the thinner end for the ankles. Make an indentation (crimp) near the end 
    of the thick part of the quill with your thumb nail.

    9. Rear legs. Add one of the rear legs at the crimp, trim the excess and then 
    cover the bare thread with a very small amount of dubbing - the object is to 
    separate pairs of legs with a small amount of dubbing so that there is no 
    quill-to-quill contact. Add the second rear leg. Again cover the bare thread 
    with a very small amount of dubbing. Remove any excess dubbing from the thread.

    10. Center legs. Crimp center set of legs and add one at a time - again repeating 
    the process in the above step. Remove any excess dubbing from the thread.

    11. Wings. Select a fish tail, fold in half and cut wings out.  To make tying-in 
    easier, cut a tab at the end of the wings. Wet the fish tail at the tab then 
    tie in. Repeat for the second wing. 

    12. Front legs. Tie in front legs (third set), facing towards the hook eye. 
    Cover the attaching points with dubbing, then pull the legs back and add 3 
    more wraps of dubbing .

    13. Head. Dub about 2-1/2" of thread and wax heavily. Wrap the dubbing behind 
    the eye of the hook, forming a waxy ball. Remove any excess dubbing from the 
    thread. Start wrapping the bare thread into the dubbed ball in a 'figure 8" 
    pattern to form the bug eyes. Finish with the thread behind the head

    14. Tying off.  Karen likes to tie off the fly similarly to the way ferrules 
    are tied off on fishing rods.  Using Kevlar thread lay a loop behind the head, 
    with the loop facing away from the eye. Wrap 4 - 9 wraps of thread over the Kevlar. 
    Keeping tension on the thread, cut it, and thread the tag end through the loop. 
    Pull the Kevlar ends such that it draws the thread under the wraps. Pull fairly 
    tight, and nip the excess thread. 

    15.  Eyes. Using the 'UV glue',  apply small amount to create eyes and dry with 
    UV light. Color the eyes with a dark brown waterproof pen.

    16. Shaping the legs. Using a candle flame, heat the tip of a bodkin. Apply 
    the hot needle to the thicker quill carefully to bend/shape legs then bend/shape 
    thinner quill (ankles/feet). Be careful. As each leg is shaped, the heat of 
    the needle accumulates. Too much heat will cause the quills to break.
                 
			  Sharon Prosser 07/16/10