FLY TYER'S BENCH

                Fly Pattern:Dunt Dee Strip Wing Fly (Early 19th Century Salmon Fly)


              Tyer's Name: Erik Simpson
              Date: November 7, 2011

    Fly Originator and History: Fly Origin and History: This fly is thought to have
    originated in the mid 19th century by Gilles for fishing the Dee River in Scotland.
    This fly was originally tied to catch the Atlantic Salmon in the fall of the year 
    and was tied  by hand before vises were invented. Harry Lamire sells a DVD where 
    he demonstrates his art of tying the Dunt Dee Fly without a vise. Harry has 
    been tying by hand since 1990 and still enjoys tying by hand. He claims that 
    with practice almost anyone can tie the Dunt Dee by hand once they finally get 
    the hang of it. The fly is now fished effectively by steelhead fisherman in 
    the Northwest. Harry Lamire has fished the Sauk and the Skagit Rivers effectively 
    in the winter with the Dunt Dee. The Dunt Dee is an effective fly for catching 
    Steelhead and I encourage members to first learn how to tie it with a vise as 
    described.


                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: This depends upon the local stream, water conditions 
    and the activity of the steelhead.
    Depth: It should be fished as a wet fly where there is some current and the 
    steelhead are present.
    Suggested retrieve:  No special retrieve is suggested. You normally have to 
    find out what works on any given day.
    Comments: This fly fishes well when there is some current present and the hackle 
    fibers are normally moving. Generally the fly is fished by casting across and 
    downstream and allowed to sweep across current.


                                Fly Material
    Hook size /length / make:  2051 Alec Jackson, Size 1-1/2.
    Thread: size / color / type: White UNI-Thread 8/0.
    Tag: Fine silver tinsel and light blue silk.
    Weighted y/n / size: No.
    Tail: A yellow ring neck pheasant feather (washed) from just below the crest 
    and a teal feather topping with a V cut.
    Body: Yellow, orange and claret seal fur substitute in equal portions.  
    Rib: Silver oval tinsel.
    Hackle: Large pheasant rump hackle tied over orange and claret seal fur. 
    Throat: Pin tail teal feature (large) or equivalent.
    Wings: Two strips of brown turkey.
    Eyes: Jungle Cock 2 medium-sized.
    Glue: "Hard As Nails" or the equivalent. 
    Wax: Premium Dubbing Wax or equivalent


                                Tying Steps

     Prepare the hook: Tie on the tag, tail and cover feather.  

    1. Wax the shank of the hook.  At the starting point just behind the return eye, 
    tie on a white thread base from the starting point to a point above the barb tip. 

    2. Tie on a thin silver tinsel tag and wrap down the hook to a point above the 
    back of the barb. Then Wrap forward to the tip of the barb and tie off with 
    4-thread wraps. 

    3. Tie on a tag of blue silk and wrap over the tinsel leaving  two wraps of 
    the silver twist exposed. 

    4. Using the white thread, tie on a washed golden pheasant neck feather (washed)
    with a low profile for color. Then partially tie on a teal feather cover with 
    a V-cut. Pull the feather forward to close the V gap and finish tying off with 
    4-thread wraps.  

    Body: Tie a on tinsel rib, body hackle and seal fur.

 

    5. Tie on an oval silver tinsel just behind the barb tip.
 
    6. Wax thread and attach a small proportion of yellow seal fur. Make thread 
    loop and use a weighted  hackle pliers to twist on a small portion seal fur. 
    Wrap the seal fur forward 1/3 the shank length. Trim excess fur and and make 
    4-thread wraps to tie off.

    7. Tie on a large pheasant rump feather by the tip at the 7:00 position. Wax 
    the thread and attach a small portion of orange seal fur. Make thread loop and 
    use weighted hackle pliers to twist on the seal fur. Wrap on the seal fur forward 
    2/3 the shank length. Trim excess fur and make 4-thread wraps.

    8. Wax the thread and attach a small proportion of the claret Seal fur. Make a 
    thread loop and use a weighted hackle pliers to twist on the Seal fur.  Then 
    wrap the Seal fur forward to the starting point. Trim excess fur and make thread wraps. 

    9. Wrap the tinsel forward and make 5-6 wraps. Tie off with 4-thread wraps, 
    cut tinsel and glue.  Palmer the pheasant rump feather forward to the starting 
    point. Tie off with 4-thread wraps, cut excess feather and glue.

    10. Lightly tease out the hackle fibers and seal fur with a bodkin. Pull down all
    the fly materials below the hook shank before tying on the turkey wings. Then 
    with tweezers place any stray materials back into the fly.

    Thorax: Tie on throat hackle, wings and jungle cock eyes.

 

    11. Tie on teal throat hackle and make 2 hackle wraps. Make 4-thread wraps 
    forward and tie off with 4 wrap. Cut excess and glue.

    12. Tie on each brown turkey wing separately the length of the body. Use only 
    half the thorax space for each wing. Make 4-thread wraps, and tie off with a 
    double half hitch. Cut excess and glue.

    13. Tie on two short jungle cock eyes each pointing lightly down. Make 4-thread 
    wraps, and tie off with a half hitch. Cut excess and glue.

    Head: Tie on the thread head. 

    14. Tie on a white thread head; make two triple half hitches to tie off and cut thread.  

    15.  Blacken thread head with a permanent magic marker, let dry and glue.  

                    Erik Simpson, 11.08.11.

                                 Technique: Parasol


              Tyer's Name: Coop Cooper
              Date: October 3, 2011

    Fly Originator and History: Originated by Fran Betters (1931- 2009) of the Adirondack 
    Sport Shop in Wilmington, NY.  

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Floating line and leader.
    Depth: Depth is determined by the length of the parasol's post.
    Suggested retrieve: Retrieve with pauses and occasional twitches, or just let it drift.
    Comments: Quite often, fish will take a rising emerger just before it surfaces. 
    Attaching a parasol to your emerger or nymph will keep the fly at a fixed depth 
    and will increase you chances of a strike. Tie-in the parasol as you are tying 
    an emerger or nymph. Or in the field, tack it onto an emerger or nymph using 
    UV Knot Sense or Krazy Glue (or equivalent).

                                Fly Material
    Parasol: Antron, Zelon, deer hair, elk hair, or any other similar material that 
    floats. In the field, use a twig if you have to.
    Post:  Monofilament leader or tippet material. 
    Note: Add some dry fly floatant to the parasol to keep it floating. 

                                Tying Steps
    1. Select some material for your parasol.

    2. Form a 'cow hitch' with the monofiliment using your thumb and index finger. 

                                              Cow Hitch

    3. Slide the parasol material half-way  through the two loops and pull it tight. 

    4. Add a touch of glue to keep the hitch from loosening.

    As an alternate, use steps 5 and 6:

    5. Select your parasol material.

    6. Tie a clinch knot around the mid-point of the parasol material.

    7. Trim the parasol to suit your needs.

    8. Tie the parasol onto the shank of the hook before tying the fly, or tack a
    parasol onto an existing fly.


               R. Shadforth 11/27/11

                               Fly Pattern: Dressy Bugger


              Tyer's Name: Cathy Van Ruhan
              Date: September 5, 2011

    Fly Originator and History: This is Cathy's variation of the wooly bugger, 
    designed by Russell Blessing. It's tied in many colors: black, brown, olive are 
    most common. The marabou tail and palmered hackle are important. It can be weighted 
    or unweighted, tied with a bead head or dumbbell eyes or plain head.

                                How the Fly is Fished
    Suggested line and leader: Intermediate or sinking line, 8' tapered leader.
    Depth: On or near the bottom, structure or near vegetation.
    Suggested retrieve: Slow leach like retrieve with pauses and occasional twitches.
    Comments: Wooly  bugger flies have a natural buggy appearance and are of sufficient 
    size to appeal to fish.

                                Fly Material
    Hook size /length / make: 2 to 14,  3XL-4XL, TMC 9395 or equivalent
    Thread: size / color / type: 6/0 black Uni
    Weighted y/n / size: Optional.
    Tail material / size / color: Marabou , green (2 or 3 feathers)
    Body size/color/material:  Wool yarn or cotton embroidery thread (should be 
    about the thickness of the shank), light green and dark green (try other colors too).
    Hackle size / color: Black wooly bugger hackle
    Other: See below on how to build the Dressy Bugger's body

                                Tying Steps
    1. Lay down a thread base from the eye to a point just above the barb (we'll
    call it the "bend"). If extra weight is desired, tie in weighted wire alone each 
    side of the shank.

    2. Preen 2 or 3 marabou feathers and tie in so they extend 1 to 1-1/2 times the 
    length of the shank. Tie down the marabou from the bend to about a 1/4-inch behind 
    the eye, and return the thread to the bend. Trim any excess marabou stems. 

    3. Tie in the body threads on the sides if they are bulky. (Use two colors of 
    wool, metallic braid or floss.)

    4. At the bend, tie a hackle feather by the tip. Trim any excess.

    5. Run the thread forward, secure with 2 or 3 half hitches (or a whip finish), 
    and cut off the thread.

    NOTE: For the following step, you can make the body by using Cathy's choice 
    which is the 'cast on' technique (see below), or the 'woven body' technique 
   (follow this link:  http://opff.org/a_woven-bodies.php ).

    6. Form the body with the lighter color on the bottom. Complete the body about  
    1/4 inch from  the eye. Re-attach thread and tie the body down.

    7. Wrap the hackle forward, doing an extra wrap just behind the eye 
    (avoid crowding the eye).

    8. Whip finish, and add a drop of glue.


                    Rick Shadforth/Cathy Van Ruhan 11/27/11